Melora Koepke

I’m in the mood for goose and I’m in luck. Pride of place at themarché nocturne in Casseneuil, a stone-house settlement in Lot-et-Garonne, in Southern France, belongs to the goose guy, whose combo plates are scrawled on yellow poster board. I pick the deluxe option – foie-gras-stuffed goose neck with magret and salad with slices of air-dried magret (like goose jerky) – and carry it back to a table in the middle of the village square to share with my friends. The whole town is here. Some people have even brought Provençal-print tablecloths and earthenware dishes from home to mark their families’ spots among the long tables, set up in the centre of a horseshoe of food stalls. Read article